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June 2016
01 June 2016
Such a beautiful campsite high up on the hill overlooking the surrounding area. Our eldest granddaughter Kimberley turns 20 today and we hoped that she awoke to a sunny sky and not the foggy morning we did, and which didn't lift for quite some time.
Dropping down the hill we were headed for the small town of Dajarra where we intended to camp overnight and where we would also have phone range again.
Long flat plains as far as the eye could see interrupted only by the occasional tree, creek, some small ranges and the thin strip of bitumen stretching out in front of us as the clouds began to form.
Pretty much the same view all of the way.
Pulling over to one side to let a cattle truck coming the other way have all of the causeway we started off again not far from the Georgina River where we have camped before, and could see a large area covered in white things about 500m off the road. Not being able to figure out what it was we kept an eye one this large area and one on the road as we approached the river. Stopping in the middle of the road (where else) just before the river itself we saw that it that a very large number of pelicans had gathered and we wondered if this was a sign of floods to come, or was this their breeding ground or maybe even just a stop off on the way to Lake Eyre from somewhere?
We did think of walking over to see them all take flight but ...didn't.
With nowhere else but the middle of the road to stop we took a few quick photo's and then moved on to the river itself, crossing and seeing that it was flowing quite well. Two campers were at the small rest area next to the river and almost every tree had a large number of Whistling Kites perched in the branches, so like Lake Eyre, the birdlife swells when the Georgina River flows.
Closer and closer to Dajarra we went, the countryside very green and even the spinifex was looking good. Dropping down a small range we came to a nice creek where the old causeway could be seen from the new bridge and so it was time to stop for a look.
The old causeway breaking up as the river claims it back.
Coming into Dajarra we could see that there were two other campers in the free camp and so not wanting to be right on top of them we took up a spot on the other side. Dajarra used to have free power with donations to be made at the pub, but it seems that not enough people gave a donation and now, while the power mushrooms remain, they are dead.
02 June 2016
The town was pretty quiet last night and the only noise that could be heard were the cheers etc when something happened in the State of Origin Rugby, and then, throughout the night music being played as the football revellers enjoyed an all nighter. Thankfully the music was only a faint noise in the background and didn't disturb our sleep.
Waking to another foggy morning we cautiously started off up the road towards Mount Isa, but we didn't get too far before we had to pull over to try and get some photo's of particular spots in the fog as it cleared.
The large hill we stopped to photograph was covered in fog but cleared quickly.
The fog had just about cleared by this time, but the wet spinifex glistening in the sun was nice to see.
By the time we left the fog had totally cleared.
Heading off again and almost around the next bend (about 20km North of Dajarra) we spotted a large body of water and some nice tree's so stopped to investigate. What we found was a large dam, some birdlife and what would be a great campsite. Perhaps we will only go this far today?
This would have been the campsite view.
So now it was time to get to Mt Isa, and the rest of the 150 km trip there was pretty much the same though noticing a rocky outcrop with a hole in the top we did stop for one more photo along the way.
Just had to stop to get this shot.
About 20km's South of Mt Isa we began to climb up into a range and there were so many photo opportunities but literally nowhere to pull over, and so we continued on to the big smoke, the large chimney stack visible for a long time before we arrived.
Coming into town we went to visitors information centre and then the dump point where the line up was long, busy and growing. Finally getting out of there we stopped in town for shopping with caravans and motorhome's everywhere. Then it was time to check out the Moondarra Dam which wikicamps had a camp site listed at. Unfortunately all of the way in there were signs saying No Camping - No Dogs, and on arrival we found a beautiful large body of water and a canoe club but very obviously no actual camp. So, we turned around, filled our fuel tank up at the truck stop and headed out to the free camp at the abandoned Uranium Mine at Mary Kathleen.
Pulling in to the site and with only three other campers in, we managed to snag the same spot as last time on the concrete floor to what was the pool buildings and set up. Unhitching the ute, setting the awning, external solar panel and satellite tv dish up, catching up with the electronic world and generally taking it easy.
07 June 2016
We spent an easy, lazy weekend at Mary Kathleen with plenty of campers coming and going to help entertain us. And then our visit was over as we went back into Mt Isa for a 10,000km service on the ute. Parking just 100m from the dealer we unhitched the 5er on the road and spent about 4 hours there waiting for the vehicle to be ready. The service is 800km early but its better to get it done early than late.
Vehicle service over we hooked up again and went off to top up our water tanks, do some shopping and top up with fuel before heading out of town about 50km's towards Camooweal to the WW2 Airfield Rest Area, where despite the number of campers there we manage to snag a good spot down the back away from the road.
This morning however we noticed that we had almost run out of gas, the investigation revealing a small leak where the regulator and gas line join. So after unhitching there was a trip back into Mt Isa for gas. The rest of the afternoon was spent attempting to plug the gas leak, relaxing and watching tv and the new campers coming in.
The milky way was out again tonight and the glow from Mt Isa (50km away) can be seen behind us.
08 June 2016
Waking this morning we decided that the gas leak had not been plugged and so we went back into Mt Isa to get the gas leak looked at. Having spoken to the man we were greeted with a smile at Bax Plumbing, where the conversation was more about our rig and lifestyle than anything else. The gas leak seemed to have fixed itself and with the system holding pressure we were on our way again, but not before a spot of shopping at BCF.
Having mentioning to Joanne the fact that when getting the gas refill yesterday I had taken the obligatory walk around the camping store and had seen the Baby Q BBQ's in there for what seemed a reasonable price, and the fact that we had donated our old BBQ to the Op-shop in Menindee, we decided to bite the bullet and get one.
Double parking in the only spot available, and just 150m from the local Police Station, I sat with the rig while Joanne went into BCF for a look. Returning with the words, "the price seems okay, and by the way the woman said to get a screen grab of a competitors price so they can match it". Joanne took over the double parking driver duty and I went in to the store, emerging a little later with the goods at the same price as David Jones online ($287), a $32 saving which paid for the gas refill - bargain!
09 June 2016
A slow morning this morning and then not long before we got friends of Mum and Dad dropped in to say hello as they made their way to Mt Isa as we packed up and headed off West.
Flattish open countryside with bush grass, spinifex and small tree's were the scene as we made our way along. Our road now parallel to the old road that had been built during the 1940's and which just followed the contours of the ground resulting in a road that resembled a trip across the ocean rather than the land.
Turning off the main highway and heading North on the Gregory Downs Road our road condition deteriorated in quality and size, but good enough to make a good speed. The view changed almost straight away and we were in more open, grassland, cattle country where the trees had disappeared and large thorny bushes had taken over. Cattle tracks through the dark brown gravel like soil spread across the landscape like an octopuses tentacles.
Small ranges in the distance grew slowly larger as we went, and eventually we stopped in a small Gravel Pit Camp that we had found on wikicamps. Such a nice peaceful spot and on gravel as well, and although phone signal was there, it was a case of go and hunt it out if you want to use it.
10 June 2016
A very peaceful camp and it was time to get back on the road again, this time the bitumen was to run out and we were back on the dirt again. Stopping to deflate our tyres we made our way along until some tree's caught our eye. Having been eaten away from the inside out by termites, the parts of the white trunk remain, almost as if the termites wanted to keep their food source alive in a sort of sustainable resource way.
Beautiful skeletons as the culprits build their castles nearby.
Leaving the termites and skeletal trees we were heading along a fairly rough bit of road, washouts that were often deceiving and the road twisting and turning through the countryside. Long swathes of very green tree's indicating the location of water being the major sights along the now tree'd track we were on. Approaching the Seymor River we were surprised to see so much water in it and only the sandbank was stopping it from reaching the roadway.
The Seymor River being stopped by a sandbank meant we didn't have to get our wheels wet.
Taking another turnoff we made our way to the O'Shanassy River where we hoped to get a camp. On arrival we negotiated the small water crossing trying not to let the beautiful view distract us from staying on the narrow concrete roadway, and with nobody else in camp found ourselves the best spot for being level, in the sun and in sight of the water.
Looking upstream from the crossing and our campsite.
Our campsite on the bank of the river just over the crossing.
Bird song occasionally interrupted by the odd vehicle being the only noise here was just fabulous and after taking a ton of photo's and then sitting in the shade down by the river watching the multitude of finches (double barred, zebra, painted, black throated), doves, budgies, white plumed honey eaters, thornbill and cockatiel's flying around and dropping down for a drink and bath in the shallows we settled in for the night as the sun went down.
11 June 2016
Waking a couple of times through the night as vehicles negotiated the water crossing we awoke to a fine day. Headed for Lawn Hill the road was again fairly rough and narrow.
Leaving the river we passed the Riversleigh Station and then negotiated the first of three water crossings for the day. The road winds through the bush and crosses the Gregory River twice in a short space of time here, the second crossing being more interesting because the fast current that was trying to push us off the roadway.
The second crossing.
The Gregory River flows all year round hence the lushness of the area that surrounds it. Coming out the other side of the lush water crossing we came to the camping area that is the Miyumba Bush Camp. This small bush camp is inside the station fence but classed as National Park ($5.95 per person, per day) and is only a short walk back to the crossing.
Leaving the Gregory behind we were back out into the dry countryside where we could see the ranges with their rampart looking tops that look similar to the ranges around Wyndham in WA and all that was missing were the Boab Trees. It was here that we came to the Riversleigh Fossil Site, complete with entry through a large rock, but after stopping to see if we were interested we decided that old fossils held little interest for us and so we continued on.
The road was still narrow and dusty thanks to the rough rocky surface that meant choosing the correct line and speed was the difference between wrecking a tyre and not, thankfully we managed to pick the right speed, and vehicles going the other way slowed enough (as did we) to get off the middle of the road to reduce the dust and stop the rocks being thrown up.
Turning into the National Park we found we had a small phone signal before the entrance but it died as soon as we crossed through the gate (we found later that we had between 2 and 3 bars at our campsite). The road was a typical National Park Road where the corrugations remove the need for a speed limit sign. Thankfully though the 4 km's in is not far and before we knew it we were there.
Booking online National Parks say that check in time is 2pm and check out is 11am, and as we had arrived at around 11 we hoped that we were going to get in early if the previous occupants of our site were leaving on time. Such is the popularity of this place we had to book one night in camp 10 and the other in camp 13 which required a move on the second day. But, a sign on the campers information and registration board revealed that the campsite numbers you book online are no longer in use in reality, and so it is now a first come, first served for the best sites. And so a walk around the small 20 site camping area revealed our booked site still taken but a good spot available nearby and so we just moved in and began our visit, the bonus being no move required!
Sitting down to lunch we weighed up our entertainment options while studying the map and decided that the Duwadarri Lookout, Indarri Falls, Island Stack and Cascades were our preferred options. So, around 1.30pm we set off with water, food and camera in hand to have a look at the lookout and falls.
Of course taking the steep way around we climbed up through the rocks, where tree's grow in places you wouldn't think they would, until we made it to the top and looked back over the gorge, rangers facilities and the campground.
The Duwadarri Lookout view.
Lawn Hill Gorge from a little further around.
Traversing along the top of the range we were walking along the path next to the gorge and the further we went the louder the sound of water running became. 75m after taking the detour we came to the Indarri Falls Lookout.
The view from the Indarri Falls Lookout.
The source of the noise, waterfalls where the levels of the Lawn Hill Creek change.
Two of the waterfalls as seen from the bank where you can swim, or portage your canoe over to the upper level.
Having left the falls lookout and climbing down we arrived at the waters edge as a group of backpackers launched themselves into the water and announcing the level of warmth (or lack thereof) through yells and screams. Then, while figuring out how to get photos of the area and the falls without swimmers in the shot we had canoe paddlers and then the small river cruise vessel turn up. Thankfully the cruise vessel (or the cold water) scared the swimmers and the paddlers off and then it left as well, leaving the photo opportunity open.
Shots taken it was then just a short climb back up the rocks and a 980m trek back to our campsite and time to try out the shower block before settling in for food and sleep.
12 June 2016
Last night was very peaceful in camp, and despite the fact that the campers are not allowed to use generators, the gentle hum of the Rangers unit off in the distance was the only noise to be heard as everyone settled in for a good night sleep.
Waking this morning to a clear but windy day we enjoyed our usual eggs and bacon breakfast after Joanne had her morning walk, discovering in the process that the Island Stack walk and Cascades were not able to be enjoyed because the bridge to get there has ben removed for maintenance! Call me stupid but would you not think that that would be done in the "off" season? So, rather than swim across to the other side, or try and balance across a long narrow log further upstream, we decided to catch up on this journal, do the washing, to cook damper and a cake in the Baby Q and try and plan a sunset photo shoot somewhere in the area.
13 June 2016
Well the sunset photo shoot didn't happen and so, having enjoyed most of the sights at Boodjamulla National Park we packed up and left (and somehow left our wood leveling blocks that we have had for the past 4 years behind in the process).
Heading out of the National Park the corrugations seemed worse than on the way in but once we were out the road improved dramatically. A short distance later it went to bitumen as it passed the caravan park at Adels Grove, and probably a good thing too as there were vans packed in like sardines and right up to the road. At $35 a night Adels is expensive especially considering it has no power and our $11.90 per night in the NP made all the corrugations seem worth the pain of getting in and out.
Once again the road moved through varying types of bush and grasslands, dips and washouts and we even passed the grader crew working on one of the worst sections. And then, for the next 35 odd kilometres we were back on the bitumen, well, sort of. The bitumen road must have been laid quite a number of years ago and judging by the potholes, cracks and other obstacles had received no care since. THe condition requiring many weaves and winds to dodge the worst bits.
And then as we approached Gregory Downs we crossed the Gregory River high up on the bridge where we looked down on the campers enjoying the rocky riverbed and small trickle of water, albeit illegally. There is a free camp just a couple of hundred metres from the river and what you would say is just in town but everybody appears to ignore the signs saying no caravans or campers past this point to enjoy the river.
We drove down for a look and decided that the old wooden bridge might not hold us and so reversed back up, jack-knifed to turn and went up into town to see what was there. We utilised the excellent dump point and toilets (which have free cold showers) and then stopped across the road for morning tea and a walk of town. Town consists of about 8 houses, a pub, small general store, council works yard and has a small community on the outskirts.
Having already done our daily kilometres we decided not to stay at Gregory Downs and to investigate some other campsites, all of which we were to later find as appealing or non existent and the offerings at Gregory Downs. Leaving town we were passing through open grassland country, complete with plenty of large white cattle. Crossing the Leichhardt River we turned off a few kilometres later and stopped for lunch at the beginning of the Nardoo-Burketown Road which is basically a dirt road through the Augustus Station.
Lunch over, one campsite no good and the other (Leichhardt River) nonexistent we began our trip toward our next option, Leichhardt Falls. The station road was in pretty good nick and other than the side tracks used after the last rain and a few washouts we made good time and speed (75km/h average).
Not the best quality photo but...you get the idea.
Approaching what appeared to be the station itself the road took a turn with the sign saying "Normanton". Well, we knew there was a road to Normanton but it was going the opposite way to what we wanted and so after consulting the GPS we turned around, figuring the road must go straight ahead through the station grounds or something, but no, we were on the right road in the fist place, the turnoff to Normanton coming a few kilometres later.
About 30 kilometres from the falls we could smell this very pleasant aroma similar to sweet lavender from the countryside we were passing through and could only put it down to the large leafed weedy shrubs that are prolific through the North, and stopping to smell the roses confirmed it was indeed that plant.
This one complete with squishy seed pod.
Our road joined the Savannah Way not far from the falls and as we came around a corner there in front of us was a large flat riverbed with a bitumen causeway running through it. Pulling over we found a spot we thought would be good and not far from a caravan that had also set up camp, and who didn't mind us being there. Our camp being about 50m from the falls themselves and with a large waterhole and creek running from it to the falls just 5m from our back window. Yep, this will do.
Our campsite from the top of the cutting. The causeway is just off to the left and the riverbed goes right across the back to the trees.
Settling in for the afternoon we explored the rocks, causeway, falls and even saw a croc sun baking on a rock before spending some time chatting with Greg and Kate before enjoying happy hour with them at our place.
One of the two small waterfalls here at the moment.
14 June 2016
The wind came up through the night bringing the temperature down a bit and requiring the doona to be pulled up, then around 4am it was time to check to see if the MIlky Way was in a good spot for some photography.
Looking just out the back of our campsite.
Photo's over it was time to head back to bed to warm up and to get some more sleep before the sun rose and it was time to get up to enjoy a rest day.
Joanne went for a walk as usual and met these two as they were packing up their camp not far from us. He is running and she cycling to Darwin to raise funds for the RFDS.
Ferris Gump and maybe the first of his many to come followers.
15 June 2016
The clouds came in last night and it made for a warm tropical night, but thankfully the breeze also came in. We awoke this morning to another beautiful day and after packing up and saying goodbye to our neighbours we made our way across the causeway and onto leaving the dirt road behind and enjoying the bitumen all the way to Burketown.
Flat grassland with small trees for most of the way to town with plenty of cattle along the way to slow us down, and one kangaroo that didn't make it after deciding to cross the road at the last minute only to be cleaned up by the bull bar and the underside of the ute and 5er. Thankfully no damage to us, but it didn't fare to well.
So today will be a chance to get some supplies, top up the water tanks, and have a look around before heading out towards Doomagee and beyond, mostly without phone coverage.
Arriving in Burketown crossed the Albert River on the new bridge next to the old one that is barely wide enough for a car and now being used as a pedestrian bridge and to house a couple of tables and seats should you wish to picnic or fish there. Crossing the grid into town we stopped at the old town bore that was drilled by the Qld Government in 1897.
Unable to be used due to its high mineral content (except to supply a bath house in the 1940's or to feed adult cattle).
Leaving the bore to it's own devices we drove into town proper. Filling up with fuel we moved onto the town centre, a large green lawn that is large enough to be able to accommodate half a dozen cars and caravans on each of the four sides. On the same street as the caravan park (which was totally booked out at $35 a night) we used the public water tap to fill our tanks.
A trip out to the rodeo ground allowed us to stop for lunch and grab a free shower from the public amenities block before heading out to the boat ramp and the river for a look. On arrival we found the camping area where with a $35 a night permit from the Shire you can camp next to the mangroves and maybe spot a croc at night. We also found the small area that apparently is the free camp, but it certainly didn't look that inviting.
Leaving town we managed to find the dump point but due to it's height off the ground and the bollards, were unable to get in a position to empty our grey water tank which we had not emptied at the river, for obvious reasons.
More flat open grassland and then the turn off to Doomagee. Passing the Tirrana Roadhouse and fording the Gregory River which was half over the causeway as it rounded a bend. Passing through the countryside that looked more like a lost city with the numerous termite mounds in amongst the trees and long grass we noticed a waterhole on the GPS and when the first track came into sight we took it for a look. Unfortunately a further investigation on foot revealed that while there was a nice spot down the track and down by the paperbark edged waterhole, we would not have been able to get back out again and so we moved on.
Doomagee was not far away and about 4 km out of town we passed the roadside drinking area (a can collectors version of heaven). Doomagee is a dry town and you can get fined for having alcohol in your possession and so the drinkers all go out of town to enjoy a tipple of three. Fording the Nicholson River via the kilometre long causeway that winds itself across the river we pulled up on the other side and stopped for a look at the weir.
Wonderful reflections in the water at the Doomagee Weir.
A check of the river bank showed that there were plenty of spots to camp and the only signs there were warning people not to swim or cross on foot.
Driving about a kilometre towards town we stopped at the roadhouse to have a look at the place as we had heard it was very well stocked, which it was. Topping up with fuel it took longer to pay for it than to put it in the tank. Doomagee is an Aboriginal town and an Aboriginal run Shire, so naturally the locals all come to the roadhouse for their fuel, soft drinks, smokes and what ever else grabs their fancy.
Asking about places to camp got a totally blank stare and but a "yep" from the young Aboriginal woman behind the counter when camping at the weir was mentioned. Spotting the Police Station sign we thought we'd ask there but they didn't want to answer the door, so, we just drove through the town checking it out, went back to the weir and set up camp.
Town was pretty much what we expected but it did seem cleaner than those we have seen in the past, though some of the yards look like the tip, but in general it was pretty good. Some grass on nature strips instead of red dirt and some lawns would transform the place no end, but even with the river on their doorstep, that ain't gonna happen.
The clouds were still around and remained to provide a great sunset and a chance to get some photo's all the while watching a crocodile that come over to near where we were camped. Guess there will be no milky way photos over the river tonight.
Doomagee Sunset (looking towards town) on the Nicholson River.
Settling in for the night we did expect curious or mischievous visitors but the only thing that got our attention was the sound of someone, or something walking past our camp about 10pm. Unable to see anyone we utilised the roof hatch to survey our surrounds and found that the intruder was in fact a horse, with three others nearby.
16 June 2016
Sleeping well after our four legged intruders we awoke to a beautiful morning as the sun began to rise and cast a pink colour across the clouds and sky, and our crocodile nowhere to be seen.
The morning glow.
Just before breakfast a vehicle pulled up and it was the local Police. Stepping outside to say hello we were greeted with the words "gee, your game". We spent the next 15 minutes chatting with Craig and Tamara about the town, the Aboriginal Shire, living in the area, where they came from and how they liked their job, both of which had volunteered to come here.
Breakfast over we packed up and went into town, found the supermarket (reputedly the best along the Savannah Way), bought some bacon, cheese and sausage rolls (on Craig's recommendation) and went on our way.
Having been on the bitumen from Burketown to Doomagee we were now back on the dirt, though the going was pretty easy for some time. About 110km's out of Doomagee we were approaching Hells Gate, complete with roadhouse, campground and airport.
Hells Gate.
Hells Gate is a rocky outcrop where the road passes through a small escarpment just a kilometre from the roadhouse. THe name originated during the settlement of the Gulf Country and when Police would escort settlers and travelers to this point from the small settlement at Corinda on the Nicholson River, then, from the portals of Hells Gate, they were on their own.
Passing through Hells Gate with nobody to welcome us we arrived at the Hells Gate Roadhouse (c 1986), a small settlement of a roadhouse building and workshop, cabins, campground ($20 unpowered, $45 powered) bar, single fuel bowser (Diesel $1.50, ULP $1.67) and runway directly opposite.
We stopped for some photos and a chat with the lady behind the counter before heading back to Hells Gate for some photos and then back to the roadhouse again to top up our fuel.
Heading off down the dirt road looking for a campsite we crossed some cattle grids that seemed very narrow as we passed through the stations.
Crossing the grid before this idiot came roaring through in a cloud of dust and rocks and didn't even slow down for the grid.
Passing the Wollogorang Station and former Roadhouse we came to the Qld/Northern Territory Border where we stopped to let the two faster vehicles behind us get their photos and move on before we took our shot and drove on at our careful pace.
We're not in Qld any more Joanne.
Some large dips and more river and creek crossings kept us entertained before we came to a small range halfway between the border and the Calvert River crossing, and began to climb it. Thankful of the bitumen to climb on and that there was no traffic coming down the narrow 2nd gear climb we made it to the top and settled on a borrow pit for today's campsite, about 500m from the range descent point.
No horses tonight but instead we had two wild donkeys come through near us just after sunset, one bellowing to announce their arrival, or disgust at our presence.
17 June 2016
Yesterday was a hot one and we were thankful for the cool breeze that was gently blowing in the windows and roof vent as we drifted off to sleep and waking during the night to pull the doona up.
We woke to another nice day with pink clouds as the sun got up.
Good and bad dirt road, the worst being between Calvert Creek (mining nearby and a sign saying water is contaminated) and Surprise Creek (widest crossing).
Coming down the long hill into the Talbot River and then up the equally steep other side we pulled into a small camping area high up on the Northern bank and walked back down the hill to investigate the river. Back at the top we spoke with an older man who was camped there in his van on his slow way to Tully in Qld.
On to Robinson Creek (deepest crossing) where we backed our home up in between some paperbark trees in what would be the river during much higher water levels.
The view out of our back window and just 20m from our camp.
The River is very narrow and shallow at the road crossing (our 4th and final one for the day) but widens out further away from our camp, the water coming out of the dark recesses of the palms crosses the road and joins the river proper. Plenty of people coming through along the road, but only the aboriginals stop for a look, a wade in the creek, a drink of the water and a smoke before continuing on, the rest just plow through the water as part of their adventure.
18 June 2016
The only sound last night was the river as it burbled and gurgled its way along and we awoke this morning to fog. The last week or so has been very humid, so humid in fact it is not funny anymore and this mornings fog wasn't helping.
A view of our camp this morning next to the water crossing.
The view out the back as the sun tries to break through.
Heading down the road with headlights on seemed rather strange this morning as it was hard to see ahead because of the fog and hard to see behind because of the dust we were starting to throw up as we went. Passing some locals trying to get their car going at the turnoff to their community as they waved the bush was thicker and even had palms starting to appear.
We have noticed that the road gets a lot rougher as we approach and depart from a river crossing and so as we slow to get past the rough spots we are at a good speed by the time we begin our descent to the water. After about 20 odd km we passed the turnoff to the Seven Emu and Managoora Stations at the top of the river crossing.
Dropping down into the river we crossed over and stopped for a look at the river itself, noticing in the process that the rear of the 5er was looking rather untidy thanks to the fog and the dust.
A foggy crossing and just deep enough to wash underneath.
Is there a car wash around here?
We considered stopping at the top to camp but eventually decided to continue on to the Wearyan River instead and which we arrived at after another 15 or 20 km's.
Two narrow tracks on the Southern side lead to possible camps but there was a big area down on the riverbank itself which we pulled into just as two caravans came from the opposite direction. They got our and had a look at the crossing and then crossed, telling afterwards that this was their first water crossing and thankful for our information of the many they were about to encounter on their way. We were thankful for their information on the bad road ahead and the fact that there is a funeral on in Borroloola today, both of which could be trouble.
We reversed up into the large riverbank area and promptly got on the roof of the 5er to wash it down courtesy of a 10 litre container we already had and another that Joanne fetched from the river. Then it was down into the river itself to park and wash both vehicles as best as we could, much to the amusement of some passers by.
So with Joanne remaining in the vehicle on croc watch, it was a case of throw buckets of water at the vehicles and use our soft car washing broom to get them clean. From there we went up onto the riverbank and settled into a nice spot that we had found earlier as the clouds once again gather across the sky and looking like they will give us a rinse down. Well, we did wash the car didn't we?
19 June 2016
Arrived in Borroloola this morning for a couple of days of rest and exploring after the last 50km's or so of dusty and often pretty bad road into town.
After checking into the caravan park ($30 per night) and getting a few things done we headed 50km out to Bing Bong Point where the local zinc mine has a barge loading facility and where we could view the Gulf of Carpentaria at the Mule Creek Boat Ramp. Yep, its a boat ramp in a mangrove sided creek that leads out to a huge body of water that could be anywhere really.
Back in town we took a drive around to look at what is here, which is not much really. Three fuel outlets, a couple of supermarkets, mechanical repairs, two schools, centrelink, museum in the old Police Station, new Police Station complex, airport and motel and restaurant.
We walked over to the Carpentaria Grill and enjoyed am "all you can eat roast" for $18 each and desert for $5 before heading back home for the night.
20 June 2016
This morning we topped up with fuel and headed out to King Ash Bay. The road was so badly corrugated for a number of kilometres a new road had been made between the bush and the road signs before it eventually improved and we arrived at this large fishing club. The KAB Fishing Club has its own mini market, fuel depot and boat ramp which services a number of houses and plenty of powered ($37) and non powered ($22) camping sites along the river.
Driving around checking the place out we found a good hundred or so campers and a large number of homes which were anything from an old bus to shacks to combinations of all sorts. Stopping to talk to the caretaker it seems that the only reason you come to this part of the world is if you have a boat and want to go fishing. Water taps everywhere from the bore and phone signal only at the caretakers office.
Back in town we went for a look in a very well stocked fuel/hardware/repair business and then shopping to top up our food before heading back home to relax for the rest of the day and later on to wash the ute.
So now we have been to Borroloola, and really don't need to come back.
22 June 2016
Having enjoyed a day off yesterday this morning we packed up and left Borroloola heading for more dirt road and the Lemmen National Park. Some bitumen for a bit and then back onto the dirt and onto what became the worst road we have been on.
Narrow in places with plenty of dry washout dips we were dodging the tips of iceberg boulders that obviously make it hard or impossible to grade the road. Passing a few people coming the other way we were making slow progress as we moved through along the Savannah Way.
Dropping down into a small dip at Batten Creek we looked up the narrow creekbed and immediately knew we had to stop for a photo. Turning around we investigated the Batten Creek Rest Area and then after pulling through the creekbed once more stopped and went back for that photo, a small black snake causing a bit of a stir for a second on the way until the realisation that it was actually dead set in.
Such an oasis in this hot dry part of the NT.
We were passing through small ranges for quite some time, small climbs and then sown the other side, the limestone or quartz looking stone covering the ground and ranges as we made our way along, dodging the big ones in the road like on an obstacle course to ensure we didn't damage anything.
Approaching one of the small quartz type ranges on a better part of the road.
Passing Lorella Springs Station ($40 pp, pn unpowered) and its plethora of advertising nailed to trees and with only one water crossing today, we came to the turn off to Butterfly Springs in the Limmen National Park ($3.30 pp, pn,unpowered). Finding the place deserted we selected what we thought was the best spot and settled in before taking the short 100m walk to see what the place was about.
It's even got a little sandy beach.
This small pool of water is here all year round and is home to not only a large array of birds, but in a small clearing up against the cool rock there are hundreds of black and white butterflies, hence the name of the location. It would be great to see the waterfall in the middle with water coming down it but if it was you would probably not be driving in to see it.
One of the many butterflies the place is named after.
A couple of cars came in for lunch and then departed leaving us as the sole human occupants of the park.
23 June 2016
The mozzies chased the flies away early last night and so it was much better sitting inside out of their relentless attack. At one stage through the night the call of a dingo howling in the pool area echoed along the walls of the gorge, and somewhere off in the distance another replied.
We found Darth Vader made of sap in the tree next to our camp.
Waking to a nice looking day we packed up and left the camping area to battle the road once more. The rough road taking us past a small airstrip opposite the entrance to the Ranger Station and the start of the Limmen Station, and where there was a vehicle loaded up with boxes and things waiting for the mail plane.
We climbed up and over a range and waded through a couple of water crossings, crossings that we could feel ourselves dropping deeper into than we have been before, after which the road condition got worse and worse. Large corrugations, rocky stretches and huge bull dust holes that made the world behind us totally disappear from view in a large cloud of dust was keeping us busy and making the drive hard.
Turning off the road just before the drop down into the Towns River we took a small narrow track to the right and after about a kilometre came to a large rock area on the bank of the river. What a beautiful spot the three campers that were there had. We had a chat with an older couple while we had our morning brew and then left but could have easily called it a day then and there.
This could have been our front yard view.
More rough road, corrugations and bull dust holes and then as we turned at the road out to Port Roper the road came good. It narrowed off like it has been while crossing through station land but the surface was fabulous, minute corrugations in places but no rocks and no bull dust holes, and our fuel economy went down from 4th and 5th gear 17 to 23l per 100km to between 13 and 15l per 100km, and we were able to get into 6th gear. Whoo hoo!
Coming to St Vidgeon Ruins we took the track down the back to the Lomarieum Lagoon and after seeing the lilly's, the birds and how beautiful it was found ourselves a spot near some other campers and called it a day.
One part of the St Vidgeon Ruins.
We are not sure what St Vidgeon was when it was a going concern so will have to look it up on the Internet to see. It could have been a cattle processing business judging by the concrete cattle race and animal dip but...?
Our front yard for the rest of today.
The people next to us said that they had seen a croc on the bank nearby and that there is supposed to be a 5m croc in there somewhere so we reckon a swim or close up photography of the lilly's are out of the question.
24 June 2016
The smell of smoke nearby just before sunset yesterday had us thinking and preparing just in case before going to bed. We could see the smoke across the other side of the road and by nightfall it seemed to have passed and we awoke to another foggy morning. The people near us questioning if they take to the water to get away from it but we reckon we would stand more chance of surviving the fire than the crocs!
Packing up and heading out we were checking out the other campgrounds along the way as we went. Close to the river and able to launch a boat seems to be the popular option through here and the fact that there is a small amount of "chase the phone signal" available for entertainment.
We called into the Yurrlmundji campground which is near the river but requires a bit of bush bashing on foot to get to the water and figured that as we were the only ones here, and, because of the lack of river access, are likely to be the only ones here that we would stop and stay. $3.30 pp, pn for a campground and a long drop dunny, but, it is quiet and pleasant.
A golden sunset to signal to the mozzies to come out for a feed.
25 June 2016
The Yurrlmundji Campsite is quite a pleasant spot and we almost elected to stay for the weekend, but in the end, decided to leave to go to Roper Bar for a look and then to see where we ended up.
It was the usual rough, corrugated road into Roper Bar and not long after we started off we passed the large campground that goes by the name of Tomato Island. Easily seen from the road they looked like they had really good amenities and plenty of sites (and campers). The price, at $6.60 per person per night is double everywhere else and there are camp hosts there as well, but then the amenities are more than double what is everywhere else.
Further on there was a large buffalo off to one side in the bush so we stopped and reversed back to see if we could get a photo but it had taken off by the time we had got to where we had seen him.
Arriving at a T-junction we had no idea of what was around so turning right at Joanne's instruction we then took the turnoff to the Roper Bar Store where we dropped 20 litres of insurance into our fuel tank, and at $2.20 a litre we certainly didn't want too much. The store is a very well stocked one and services the local Aboriginal Communities with everything they need, including electronics, and it appears, to be the only thing here, other than the airstrip, an honesty payment caravan park down near the river and a sign saying motel, wherever that might be.
Back at the main road we stopped for a look at the Roper River Police Station Ruins which was an interesting insight to the area, and which sit within sight of the river and the crossing.
The history of the Roper River Police.
The remains of the Police Station/Residence which brunt down in 1992.
The Police have been gone for a long time but it seems they left someone in the cells.
Crossing the Roper River Bar
The view from the other side.
From Roper River there was just 40km's of corrugated dirt until we hit the bitumen, though it didn't last like it was supposed to courtesy of road works, the sections of which seemed to go on for about 20 odd kilometres, before we got a good run and eventually met the Stuart Highway that leads North to Darwin and South to Port Augusta.
Not able to find a couple of camps that were on wikicamps we elected to take the 5 km trip South to the gravel pit just in from the highway on the way to the Elsey Cemetery and original site of the homestead where we camped when we cycled around Australia.
26 June 2016
Last night there was just one other caravan and us in the gravel pit until after dark when a single backpacker vehicle came in and settled in down the back. This morning the backpackers (a young German couple by the names of Isabelle and Florian) had some problems with their vehicle. Turns out they had diesel spilling out of somewhere near the injectors all over the motor, the fine mist visible but none of us could pinpoint exactly where it was coming from, let alone fix it.
So after discussing all the possible options and trying to find a good cheap option for them I ended up disconnecting the 5er, giving them a quick towing lesson and explaining what and how I wanted them to do it, what to expect as we went and checking they were on the same radio channel as me I then towed them 15km's into Mataranka using the radio to instruct them as if I was driving their vehicle. The caravanners who were with us in the gravel pit played tail-end Charlie and warned traffic coming up behind us on the radio and we had a little convoy.
Arriving in Mataranka I parked them under a shady tree outside the mechanical repairs shop just up the road from the roadhouse to await mechanical assistance in the morning, and returned to Joanne for a late brunch.
27 June 2016
After dropping the Germans off at the mechanical repair the rest of the day was fairly quiet, quiet that is until first one, then two, then three and finally a fourth backpacker car (two with roof top tents) came in and set up camp. To be fair they were fairly quiet but sat up until midnight and no matter how quiet they tried to be...they weren't. But revenge is sweet and this morning we had to check our tyre pressures after pumping them up after we hit the seal and that is best done when they are cold, so ...while the backpackers were still in their beds I used my slightly noisy air compressor to inflate my tyres to the correct reading. But only one car load got up.
One car load left before we did and then we left leaving the other three to sleep in. We stopped in and saw the two broken down Germans who were getting towed into the workshop by the forklift just as we arrived, so things were good there.
Heading onto Katherine for shopping etc we arrived to find a town that looked more like a caravan and camping show. There were hundreds of camper trailers, caravans, motorhome's etc parked all over the place, it was simply amazing. Grabbing a park in with many of them we reckon that there were about 50 just in the parking area and lawn where we were, and they came and went all the time.
So after receiving an email offering us work we rang the GrainFlow Ops Coordinator for Qld and had a chat to find out what was needed. Turns out they have not got rid of much, if any of last years harvest in Qld. Now they are starting to move it, and they need help, so we agreed to provide some. Seems the work could be in a few places over a few months, but we will start off in Surat, the site we first worked the harvest back in 2012.
Shopping, fuel and dump point done we headed South, stopping in Mataranka at the only place that had diesel fuel for two jerry cans of insurance we hit the road again and passed where we had camped last night, heading for who knows where for today.
Wikicamps showed a possible site at the historic World War 2 AIrfield and so we turned off the highway and turned into the National Trust Airfield and selected a spot just inside the gate.
28 June 2016
No need to scramble the fighters from the WWII Airfield overnight meant a peaceful sleep, but we awoke to a cool morning and the wind from the South East.
Taking a quick trip around the road and past the remains of a tree blazed with "S" for Stuart we made our way back out onto the highway where we topped up our fuel at the roadhouse ($1.36) and then took a road off the highway towards Cape Crawford, which funnily enough also takes you to Borroloola where we were a week ago.
Having done the road to 3 Ways and across the Barkley Highway a number of times we thought we'd take a different route. It just meant going East and not South and then South and not East, and was by our reckoning about 60km's longer. But it would give us another line on the map and the chance to see a road and place we haven't before.
The single lane bitumen with the occasional wide bit fairly boring to Cape Crawford and it was a good job we had other travellers to overtake and some coming the other way to keep us amused, including two idiots who thought it was fun to come belting past with both wheels off the narrow stretch of bitumen. Naturally we hoped on the radio and thanked them for the shower of stones, receiving nothing but attitude in return. Never mind, Karma will get them back.
We arrived at the Cape Crawford Roadhouse and topped up the fuel ($1.80 per litre) before having lunch while checking the place out. If you went there hoping to get a Cape with water you would be disappointed as the only water there is that which the sprinklers provide to the very, very green grass. Basically it is a roadhouse/caravan park/restaurant/pub/sightseeing helipad on the Cape Crawford Station and it sits at the junction of the road up from the Barkley Roadhouse, the road we came up from Daily Waters and the road that leads on to Borroloola.
Leaving the busy roadhouse we immediately began driving through a range, domed hills on one side and rampart escarpment on the other, the trees changed as well and it was quite a pleasant drive compared to what we had before.
The terrain changed along the way from woodlands to rocks and spinifex to grasslands and then a bit of everything, the constant however was the single lane bitumen, which as mostly good except for a 10-15km stretch where a weak stomach would not be a good thing and any car company in the world would love to have it as a test track, Rocking and rolling our way along we were hoping it was going to change and not stay this way for the next 300km's and eventually it did change for the better.
The tripple trailer road trains were out in force heading North to collect cattle and by the time we had stopped for the day we had been passed by about seven, all of which we pulled over and gave the whole road to.
Passing the Barkley Stock Route we came out of the Anthony Lagoon Station and into the Brunette Station, and that is where today's drive ended, at a small rest area near a busted down windmill with three other caravans and a Winnebago Longreach towing a boat.
29 June 2016
Happy Hour at the campsite was a long one thanks to a great bunch of people who got on rather well, and the fact that there was a fire for us to stand around and enjoy, to which we contributed with some wood we still had from a camp on the Murray River.
A few left early and then we left ahead of two or three others, taking the lead to save looking at the back of the other vans and/or having to overtake them. The only problem with taking the lead however was the cattle and birds that provided a little obstacle course to add to the bumpy road.
Some pink and grey's decided to take flight at the last minute, one of which hit the windscreen on the drivers side, then a flock of budgies that turned our whole view a bright green as they took flight and managed to dodge us and then there was the cattle that were lurking in the bush and looking like they would sprint across the road at any time, and a calf that did exactly that, missing our bull bar by about 3 feet.
Arriving at the Barkley Homestead Roadhouse we negotiated the human obstacle course that were there filling up with fuel and goodies from the roadhouse to top up our fuel and then head back out onto the highway. Passing a previous camp at a deserted Telstra tower we made our way along the wide, smooth, almost boring highway and stopped for morning tea at Wonora Bore. We first camped there on the bikes in 2003 and the windmill was there, then we visited in 2013 and the windmill was gone but the frame remained, now the frame has been removed and has been dumped down the back. The water tank and dam are still there and there is plenty of space to camp.
Moving on we crossed the flat grasslands of the Barkley Tablelands that stretch off to the horizon, crossed back into Queensland before turning off into the Billabong just on the outskirts of Camooweal.
Taking the track in we idled quietly along the campers that had taken over every single spot along the first billabong where the lilly's are out in bloom and making quite a show. With nowhere to camp without being on top of the others we made our way down to the second water course that is actually Lake Canellan and selected a spot to settle in, watch the newcomers, the birds and chat with a couple from our last cam at Brunette Downs who camped next to us.
30 June 2016
The end of the financial year and a day off to enjoy the campsite.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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